Hanging out in the French Quarter is like binge-watching every season of Below Deck: it’s fun while you’re doing it, but once you’re done, you’re glad you escaped with your sense of reality intact.

A recent dinner has me newly in praise of the early dinner reservation, especially when it makes room for a show afterward. The restaurant was Sylvain (625 Chartres St., 504-265-8123), the table was ...